GTi-R rebuild

right guys. thats why audi as an OEM manufacture factory trains their techs to use those shrinkable connectors. im not saying that soldering is bad, im just saying those connectors are better. audi even has a special crimper to crimp them to exactly to peak of strength and resistance. trust me ive seen the graph. i know how to solder, i worked at a shop that only allowed people to solder wires in. ive done hundreds of solder joints, even so i still prefer using those shrinkable connectors. they are just more reliable in every way.

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They may recommend that, but sorry most people who crimp them on are not trained Audi techs. Most people who crimp on connectors dont use shrinkable connectors. I dont have a problem with those crimp connectors, but I think a proper solder joint with heat shrink is not only a strong connection but offers less resistance. On the flip side a lot of the people who try and solder fail at it.

exactly.

ok so I sent out my gtir head to get valve job and checked for anything wrong, I just got a call from the machine shop that they dont know what the valve lash is supposed to be set to? does anyone know what its supposed to be and If I am not mistaken the only adjustment is with the little caps ontop of the valves? if I am right can I get different sizes or no?

well parts are starting to come in, so far I've gotten all the gaskets, vvl head gasket, pistons, bearings, injectors, and crank back. Now I am just waiting for the block and head to come back then I can get started putting it all back together.

Just thought I would do an update on my progress. I have been slacking on the pics (never remember my camera) but anyway I finally got the gtir back together and put in last weekend, started it up for the first time today after figureing out all the wiring gremlins. I do have a problem that I cant seem to figure out and Im hoping someone can shed some light on it for me. It starts and idles perfect good oil pressure got FP set at 40lbs at idle but when I rev it up it acts like it hits a limiter (like on the newer cars so you cant rev them in park) if I give it a quick throttle hit it will rev to about 1800 rpm but nothing more. This kinda seems like the TPS to me but it seems to be working fine. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The other thing is the timing I know the general rule of thumb (at least for turbo'd V8's) is 1 degree retard for every lb of boost, is it the same for this? I have a video of the initial start up I will be posting when I get it into my comp. I will also take a video of the hesitation problem I am having to show you whet I am talking about. thanks

well I checked the codes and the only code the car is showing a 12 which is the MAF. My question is if I put my stock maf on it will make a difference since the ecu is tuned for a z32? I ahve heard if its not tuned for it, it wont work correctly.

Yes it will make a difference. Were you running a Z32 maf before, or did you just add one? Is the Z32 you have new or used? If you unplug the MAF will the car rev normally?

yes it did have the z32 maf before, but the car wasnt running when i got it. and it doesnt seem to make a difference weather its unplugged or not idles ok but as soon as i try to rev it, it acts like a limiter. When i got the car the maf had a ton of oil on it I cleaned it but didnt make a difference. I ordered a new maf just to be sure since i dont have a spare and dont know if the one i got is any good all I know for sure is the the maf IS getting power. also the neutral switch isnt hooked up could that have anything to do with it? I am tyring to find a new one to eliminate any problems there as well.

double check for big air leaks too

Yes, what he said. Air leaks. When I had a boost leak on my old turbo 240. Plugs got all black really quick from running rich. Check you plugs.

Neutral switch shouldn't matter. 2 of my cars don't have the neutral switch hooked up. The neutral switch is only so that you don't start the car in gear.

Sounds like it might be you maf. I believe when you unplug it. Should start to make a difference. MAF is monitoring the amount of air coming into your engine.

I have checked for air leaks but i will check to make sure again. The plugs are new and good. I have heard that if the maf is bad or unplugged it will act like this so I'm hoping it will resolve the problem. thnaks again for all the advice

well I put the new MAF in today and it is still doing the same stuff only now it is throwing a code for the crank angle sensor.
would the cranck angle sensor go off from adjusting the timing? also the MAF code is still there I think i am goning to try regrounding it and see if that helps any other suggestions would be awesome.

I would check the wiring on that MAF.

Also the CAS should be in the distributor, maybe there is an issue there as well.

well i got the CAS fixed and I tried regrounding the MAF but it changed nothing so I checked the wiring to the MAF redid it and still nothing. It is still showing MAF on the ecu. I thought maybe something was bad in the turbo so i bypassed the turbo and still the same. there is good power going to the MAF and there is a signal to it also. I am at a loss here I checked everything that I can think of and checked all the tips from everyone on here and I got nothing.... any more tips would be great.

here are a couple pics of how the car looks now, i dont have any engine shots yet they will be coming soon tho.




I still have alot of work to do to the car but at least for now its together....

I got to thinking and looking around my engine bay and realized there is 1 sensor that is not plugged in. I believe its the FICS? there is no plug on the harness for it tho. could this be the reason this thing is running so bad?

well I got the car running pretty decent now, after getting a 3rd MAF and completely going through the harness to check and fix wiring. I have been searching on all the forums and FSM but i cant seem to find how to adjust the ITB vacuum ports. right now they are screwed all the way in which would make it run rich. Does anyone know the correct way to adj. these I just dont want to end up running lean.

I am still lost on this I have checked everything I can think of and done all the tips from everyone. I did check the knock sensor wiring throught the whole harness and everything seems to be ok. I was thinking that maybe the timing jumped a tooth on the crank when I put it together so today I pulled the VC off and set it to TDC on #1 and checked it for the 3rd time and it is right on but what is weird is I wouldnt think I should have to have the dist. full advance for it to run, if I retard it at all it wants to die..... I am at a complete loss with this thing right now. If anyone is intrested in coming to try to help me figure this damn thing out I will buy beer, food whatever I just need to get this thing going.

It sounds like your timing is off. The distributor should be dead nuts in the middle at normal timing. That should be your issue.

yea I thought it was timing also. I guess it wasnt going into timing mode when I was trying to set it before. I am pretty sure I got it in today reset it agin and it runs better but it is still super rich. I set the ITB air screw back to where they were originally all the way in (dont know if its correct or not tho) I cannot seem to find out how to adj. them anywhere and the FSM doesnt show anything about them.

ive seen people adjust itb's with 4 vacuum gauges (one in each port) then adjust them till they all have equal vacuum. idk if that helps or not. it sucks youre having so many problems.

yea I know how to adj. the ITB's I just dont know if they are supposed to at a certian vacuum or just equal with eachother. Does anyone have a spare knock sensor they would get rid of I dont want to spend $150 on it since I am not 100% that its bad. I knew I was going to have problems with the wiring but when I really got into it, it was more then I would have ever thought. If I knew it was as bad as it is I would have just got a new harness from the get go.

Yea I have one.
Hard to say on the vacuum. I know when I was adjusting the triple webbers on my z the outer carbs had more than the inner. Anything on the SR forums on it?

well I might have to make a trip to madison this weekend to pick it up unless your gonna be around baraboo/dells area sometime. And I searched on both forums and a gtir forum for hours and couldnt find anything on where they need to be adj. to.