GTi-R rebuild

Well I pulled the head off of my new project to find out why #4 only had 10lbs of compression and heres what I found. I will be posting pics of the rebuild when I do it but at least now i know what I am dealing with. the cyclinder is a little scored but I think it will be ok after a good honing, other then that everything else still looks good suprisingly.


I would assume this is from too much boost and maybe running it to lean?

You may have had the injector fail on that cylinder. I had that happen to my 10:1. Sent my injectors out to rc for cleaning and flow balancing and that injector was only flowing 2-300cc and they are 625cc injectors. I would highly recommend getting this service done. Oh also fyi i had an inovate wideband in the car at the time which was reading just fine. Reason being with only 1 o2 bung its just a ratio not exact, 3 of 4 cylinders were getting the proper fuel which in turn made the wideband read correctly. I should have had them cleaned and flow balanced in the first place, but i figured they were working fine when removed from a friends car so they would work well in mine.

I think they charge around 100.00 for this service. I would completely take the engine appart and rebuild it from the ground up if i were you. You never know where some of the material from that piston and or rings got to. Just my .02.

x2 about the rebuild. thats your lesson in detonation lol. thats pretty bad. nothing some time and money cant fix though.

thanks for hte input I will be getting the injectors cleaned and flow balanced. It will be getting a complete rebuild when money allows. Anyone know where I can get a piston? I am goning to have everything magnifluxed to make sure nothing else was damaged but from the looks of it everything else is ok. I will be looking into a SAFC and wide band O2, also does anyone know how acurate the air fuel ratio gauges are? I want to make sure this doesnt happen again.

i would have the block bored and get 4 new pistons. i wouldnt just hone it. safc's are good for mild changes like going from 8psi to 12. i wouldnt trust it 100% for "a good tune" because it changes the maf signal which also changes the ignition timing. people have run pretty high hp setups with them before, its just not ideal. widebands are great as long as you dont have any exhaust leaks. i would check all the rod and main bearings. clean the oil pump pickup and take the oil pump apart and make sure nothing is inside or has damaged it. better to be safe.

I am going to have the block checked if it is ok I am not going to bore it I would rather keep the stock bore incase something else happens I still have room to repair it. the rods and main arent scored up so I dont know if I just got lucky or what.... I will be taking the oil pump apart and checking to make sure its not damaged.

Well I'm putting together a list of what I will be getting for the rebuild of the gti-r, so far for internals I have ARP head and main studs, JE Forged Pistons, Eagle H-beem rods, stock gasket set, ACL rod and main bearings and ACT 6 puck sprung clutch. If anyone has anyother input I would appreciate it. Once stuff starts coming in I will start the rebuild pics.

I have heard that ARP head studs are not always the best. Go with golden eagle head studs and a SR20VET stock or coswoth head gasket.

i always suggest oem bearings.

I am tyring to find the GE head studs, just get the ones for a b16 i've heard? also what about the main studs is it worth spending the extra money on them or are the oem ones good enough?

OEM ones should be fine. On the head studs I am not sure.

Mazworx sells some nice headstuds as well. I would stay away from cometic gaskets. IMHO they are a hit or miss situation.

does anyone have the metal clips for the plugs on the wiring harness? whoever did the swap on my car didnt put any of them on and all the plugs just fall off if anyone has some let me know otherwise I will have to start making them. thanks

The 2 plug ones?

all the clips are gone not a single one on the whole harness.... whatever you got...

hacks

Zip ties work great.

yea hacks are right, I will be going through the whole harness to make sure its not all cut up or spliced.

If you have any cuts or splices make sure you solder and heat shink everything! Yes and zip ties work wonders!

or use the shrinkable butt connectors. those are better than soldering.

Better than soldering? Nothing is better than a soldering and heat shrinking.

yea if I have to redo anything it will be getting soldered and heat shrunk. and yea I didnt think of zip ties and it will be easier then bending a ton of new ones

Big Ben wrote:

Better than soldering? Nothing is better than a soldering and heat shrinking.

ive seen quite a few solder joints break. ive never seen one of those butt connectors fail, ever. in fact if you pull on them the wire itself breaks before the connector does. plus its sealed with glue so no moisture can ever get in.

93sapphirecoupe wrote:

Big Ben wrote:

Better than soldering? Nothing is better than a soldering and heat shrinking.

ive seen quite a few solder joints break. ive never seen one of those butt connectors fail, ever. in fact if you pull on them the wire itself breaks before the connector does. plus its sealed with glue so no moisture can ever get in.

Thats because most people dont do it right. I would never use a butt connector. I solder everything and with the right heat shrink it will never break. I just dont lay the wires on each other and solder them. They get twisted together before being soldered and that will not break before the wire. When you use butt connectors you are adding resistance and bulky crap in your harness. I soldered my harness when i redid the whole thing and had zero issues and it looked factory.

+1 squirlz. Not soldering is for lazy people. Which will most likely end up doing twice the amount of work down the road when they could have just soldered in the first place. Just my .02.